I have the Peterbilt Wrecker as well, and from the instructions the wheels look like they might be the right ones. However, can't find the wheels in my bins.Rats said:
I have the Peterbilt Wrecker as well, and from the instructions the wheels look like they might be the right ones. However, can't find the wheels in my bins.Rats said:
Rats said:
The AMT " MOVIN ON" truck kit has the U shaped pieces.
I had a question. Anyone planning on making a vaccuformed copy of the sphere's for the styrene around the rims? I'd be interested. I want this to be as close to the REAL DEAL as possible.
incrediPAUL said:
I forgot to thank you. That was the last kit on my list. I just got one off EBAY. Now I'll have all the original kits used to build this baby.
Congrats sir! It will be a race to the finish!yodakiller1138 said:
I forgot to thank you. That was the last kit on my list. I just got one off EBAY. Now I'll have all the original kits used to build this baby.Hopefully I won't let this project go longer than one year. I've got lots of misc castings shoot me a PM if you need something specific.
EDIT: used the Midnight Express for the rims. Here's a comparison of the lugs next to an MPC Y I whipped up to get me back in the swing of things:
I wish I could vac form, but honestly the styrene is so thin I doubt anyone would know the difference as long as you nail the shape. Just coax them concave first but make sure you sand the back for maximum glue adhesion.
Last edited by TheRealMcFly; Feb 18, 2009 at 6:23 PM.
Oooo, I'd be in for some.yodakiller1138 said:
I had a question. Anyone planning on making a vaccuformed copy of the sphere's for the styrene around the rims? I'd be interested. I want this to be as close to the REAL DEAL as possible.
I'm in the middle of building this as well. Special shout out to Frank for the inspiration and knowledge on this baby. I vac formed some styrene around the hemisphere for the round bits around the rims. It's not as hard as you think, and if you're careful you can cut the necessary 8 discs from one pull. A circle cutter is a must! My first pull was too thin when all was said and done, so I think that I'll make another with slightly thicker styrene. I thought I had the right rims, but after closer inspection they are a little off. Fee-bay here I come!
Derek
Maybe the next go round boys, unless someone wants to jump on that.Sumatra said:
I have dreams of doing another in gloss white using the Tamiya Panther bits instead. Sort of an alternate version maybe with different truck rims too.
Whoa! Yeah that was fast. Can I get one of those?DBot845 said:
does the aforementioned kit have to be the "movin' on" version, or can the regular w-925 kit do the trick?
thanks
DBot845 said:
I don't own a vacumm-forming machine or anything, so if you were to offer this I'm sure others as well as myself would be VERY INTERESTED.
Scott
Hi! What's the correct diameter for the training remote sphere?
6"
Plastruct VHH-600 hemispheres
Thank You Sir! One final question! Does one AMT Kenworth T600A Have all the wheel rims needed?
Last edited by actias; Mar 1, 2009 at 11:21 PM.
No, there are only 4 rims per kit.
how does one accomplish the finishing WITH the scotch-lright already in place? i can understand stuffing the cupolas, but the tape is FLAT behind the rims, with several holes in to rim to mask.
my guess is that the rims are slipped in place after the rest of the remote has been painted and weathered?
true or have others found a different method?
secondly.
the little stubby post above the panther gun port. jim c. says its a "muffler baffle" on the panther kit, but i am super confused to what that would be...i've flipped those sprues several times and cant find it. what am i misunderstanding?
thirdly,
the sheet rectanglangular pieces (big pieces @ equator) & (threesome above the cupolas). what is the thought of their thickness (along with the thickness of the circles around the rim)? the prop pics make the rectangles looks like they are two pieces stacked...creating small steps at the edges. this seems rather complicated by the standards of the prop makers and is just likely more the weathering of the edges to the primer white .. just a theory.--is it possible that the rectangles are actually painted scotch-lite. their thickness would indicate, no? and the horrible gunky painting may be due to applying thickly after that much light reflective on the prop was found to be TOO much for the camera? just theories?
thx
EDIT: You'll have to settle for a teaser instead.
Last edited by TheRealMcFly; Sep 28, 2009 at 11:53 AM.
See post #13 of this thread.qcfoundry said:
You got it! Mine hold in place just fine with friction. Don't put the truck rims in until you are finished.qcfoundry said:
Are you sure you are using the Bandai 1/48 Panther? There should be 2 per kit, right near the hatch cover.qcfoundry said:
You have just touched on a key feature of the original remote. The equatorial panels are not reflective tape; just styrene. The double edge you are seeing is the result of a graphite outline. Get out your pencils.qcfoundry said:
EDIT: I can never get a post right the first time!
Last edited by TheRealMcFly; Sep 28, 2009 at 11:34 AM.
Not many replicas get this, and it really makes the prop pop.incrediPAUL said:
Couldn't agree more.PHArchivist said:
EDIT: Took out me talking scoop on the MR. For the record, I'd be thrilled to dremel off the detail bits and use their beautiful idealized panels.
Last edited by TheRealMcFly; Sep 28, 2009 at 4:08 PM.
Im trying to resuurect my remote page from my home page.
Anyways....Im still trying to get everything working.
Also..Im adding new pics and updating some really old info..so..check back..and keep checking back.
http://www.hobbymatrix.com/props/starwars/build.htm
Last edited by BrundelFly; Oct 4, 2009 at 10:21 AM.
Thanks for throwing it back up. The first thread has been updated.
More photos of the build tonight.
incrediPAUL said:
No worries.
Ill get the PAINTING tutorial up next.
And I'm gonna need it soon.BrundelFly said:
When we originally spoke, Lorne said it was Reefer White. I put primer white in my first post as the plastic primer I am using seemed to match the base color of the remote as it is today. It has undoubtedly yellowed over the years. However, I am certain that it is the Boxcar color instead of red, though.
EDIT: Lack of updates are due to the loss of my camera and not having internet at home. Double whammy.
When and how did you get to speak with Peterson?incrediPAUL said:
There's some other ball I'd love to chat with him about...
I'll see what I can do...PHArchivist said:
Check the first thread.... he came to do a presentation where I work when WSMI was in Philly. I happen to have my project materials with me because I was going to spend some time at a friend of mine's studio afterwards. I had no idea he even built the original remote until I asked him a few questions about the thing. Went to my car and grabbed the kit parts and hemispheres; it was when he signed the one. Seemed to perk up at seeing a project, as a lot of fans that night we're only after multiple autographs on who knows what. He even flat out told me not to pay a lot for the super deluze Sculpting a Galaxy and to hold out for a used copy.
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